Chip on The Big Shoulders
Love makes you a little blind. Your adoration creates a glow of perfection around the object of your desire. You know there must be flaws, sure, but your devotion is so sincere and complete that you ignore all the rest. And you want others to love what you love too.
This is how I feel about Chicago.
So I was thrilled when I learned that Phil Rosenthal’s show, Somebody Feed Phil, was coming to Chicago. Phil’s enthusiasm for food and places is similar to mine – he squeals, gesticulates wildly, and literally jumps with joy. I've watched him eat and dance his way around the world, and I hoped he would not only enjoy Chicago with his infectious joy in discovery.
Chicago is a popular food and travel show destination, but I have been burned before.
The late Chef Anthony Bourdain came here for his show, Parts Unknown, in 2016 and spent most of the 42-minute episode ‘day drinking’ in the Old Town Ale House. He ventures out for mapo doufu with Chef Stephanie Izard, devours a breaded steak sandwich, and even shares a home-cooked meal with rapper Lupe Fiasco and his family. There's a cursory discussion of Chicago's history of racial division and the civil rights movement. There are a few obligatory shots of the skyline, the “L” train, the river, but the majority of the trip is spent in a northside dive bar with other old white guys.
After I finished watching the episode when it was first released, I felt stunned. While Bourdain was known to regularly proclaim his love for the city, the Chicago he visited was weathered, worn, and predominantly white. Not entirely untrue, but certainly not flattering.
Cut to the happy, hungry Phil Rosenthal strolling across the Michigan Avenue bridge in the intro to his Chicago episode. Phil’s Chicago isn’t perfect, but he is optimistic and giddy in his contagious, fan-of-your-thing way. He starts with Al’s Beef, where he gets schooled on ‘the Italian stance’ necessary to take on an imposing Italian beef sandwich. Next up, an evening at Jim’s Original with Julia Sweeney of SNL fame, where they ate Polish dogs and chatted with guys who rode from Gary, Indiana, on their Harleys to get fried pork chop sandwiches.
Phil and his daughter Lilly hit the Logan Square location of Bang! Bang! Pie Shop for a dreamy BLT biscuit and multiple varieties of their famous pies. They go on the Chicago River architecture tour, where my city was at its sparkling best. Phil says that “Chicago has the best architecture in America.” He’s so right.
Another thing we do best: Pizza. They headed to my favorite pizza spot, Pequod's, in Lincoln Park for several traditional deep-dish Chicago pies that fed the whole crew.
Phil rode along with The Urban Growers Collective on the Fresh Moves Mobile Market, serving communities that are food deserts on the south and west sides of the city. He amicably visited with shoppers and the urban farmers who made this vital program possible and showcased this hopeful program, even calling out their website where donations can be made.
He tried his hand at making ridiculously plump ravioli with the adorable Sarah Grueneberg of Monteverde in the West Loop. Phil headed south to Shawn Michelle’s Homemade Ice Cream, turning on his usual charm while sampling hand-churned ice cream and peach cobbler with regulars from the neighborhood.
Chicago native and Executive Chef Erick Williams hosted Phil and his friend, famed pastry Chef Mindy Segal, at Williams' Hyde Park restaurant Virtue, where they drank whiskey and tequila and sampled Southern American dishes like sautéed salmon on succotash.
He wandered around Pritzker Pavilion, through Millennium Park and past ‘the Bean,’ then headed across the street for a cocktail at Cindy's Rooftop at the historic Chicago Athletic Association.
The final stop in this episode was to Ebenezer Missionary Baptist Church, the birthplace of Gospel music. Phil told the story of hearing the song ‘Amen,’ from Lilies of the Field as a child. He sings along and claps his hands with gusto, while clearly holding back tears.
“The spirit moves you,” Phil says in conclusion. “The people move you. The architecture. The food. Chicago moves you. How many places can you say all these things about?”
I had tears in my eyes as well when I watched this episode in early June, soon after the Season 3 release on Netflix.
Phil says that the promise of America is realized here in Chicago. Not completely true. Not yet.
A realistic picture of the Windy City probably lies somewhere between Bourdain and Phil’s versions. Some of us are day drinkers; we are not always sparkling. Many suffer in hidden ways, while others are protected by privilege.
It is tough to admit it, but my darling Chicago has flaws. Even the things you love dearly have room for improvement.
This piece also appeared in the July 2020 Issue of Fete Lifestyle Magazine.